Un tour de Paris

Our youngest daughter visited recently... quelle joie! After spending time in our home and visiting spots in the south of France, we traveled north for a few days in Paris.

Come join us on a tour of our corner of Paris and beyond.

La tour Eiffel . . . I never tire of this sight

She'd had the brilliant idea to rent an Airbnb in our old neighborhood, where she was born and where we lived for six years in the 90s. Such a blast from the past to wander familiar streets and marvel at what has changed and what has remained the same.

Back in the day, we lived in the 11th arrondissement (district) in an incredible second-floor apartment looking out onto a park. That the owner rented it to us was a miracle as our finances were a bit "tight" as pointed out by the real estate agent. What she didn't know was that the owners had just returned from a trip to California, our home state. They were very open to Americans and just wanted to be sure we weren't part of a cult. "What exactly do you do and believe?" they asked. We explained that we are Bible-believing Christians, finding more common ground as they were Jewish. We emerged onto the sidewalk at the end of the meeting holding a large front door key.

Here's a current view of that apartment from across the street (where we stayed this time once we figured out how to connect with the Airbnb host!) We were on the second floor, right above the storefront below. Three windows on each side of the central window—complete with beautiful wrought iron—all let in light, views of foliage, and the park across the street. And as a bonus, that corner window was over a lovely marble fireplace. We loved this apartment.

View of the park and our old apartment building across from our Airbnb (yes, we got in!)

Square Maurice Gardette

 We spent many happy hours in this square. All the parents and children would migrate there after school. It was truly the heart of the community and facilitated many great relationships. Such a joy to hear children playing and that gate clanging shut, which I hadn't realized is a permanently embedded memory.

Once we settled in, it was time to venture out into the city. We walked past the Eglise St. Ambroise, marveling at the block-long structure in the middle of our old neighborhood.

Eglise St. Ambroise

Next, we hopped onto the metro in time for a classic French serenade:

After a brief ride, we walked the rest of the way, enjoying the sights from above ground. First stop: the Paris Opéra. This gorgeous building always amazes me.

Another of my beautiful daughters sent me a clip of a secret artist who fills in cracks around Paris (and other French cities) with mosaics by night. I was delighted to come across this one across from the Opéra.

Farther on, we came to the Place Vendôme, home of the Ritz Hotel and multiple high-end jewelers. It was Fall Fashion Week, and with many tinted-window vehicles lining the area, we figured one of the shows was taking place nearby.

Place Vendôme

Around the next corner stood the Grand Palais and a street full of photographers and tourists holding up their phones. The Chanel Show inside had just finished, and models and other celebrities trickled out. We couldn't really see or identify anyone, but an occasional cheer from the crowd indicated "someone" had come out.

The Grand Palais

Light flowing through the dazzling steel and glass ceiling creates an incredible atmosphere inside.

We arrived at the Tuileries Gardens, always so beautiful and especially so under a brilliant blue sky. Then on up the Champs-Élysées, ending at the always majestic Arc de Triomphe.

L'Arc de Triomphe

Just to the left of the Arc de Triomphe, we find this enormous Louis Vuitton trunk-shaped building. The future hotel takes up the whole block. Slated to open in 2026, rooms are a mere 5K/night. I just want to know where are the windows?

Louis Vuitton Hotel, Champs Elysée

Wandering on down to the Seine River, we sighted the graceful Eiffel Tower. We hopped onto a Batteaux Mouche boat tour for a restful hour, giving us unique views of major monuments as we cruised down the river.

Enjoy!

Pont des Arts

Musée d'Orsay

One tiny part of the Louvre Museum

Notre Dame Cathedral

Still under construction after the fire of 2019

The Conciergerie

Famous prisoners included Marie-Antoinette and Robespierre

Interesting to think that Parisians disliked the Eiffel tower when it was first constructed in 1887-1889. Iconic to say the least, as I mentioned earlier, I never tire of it, especially when seen in person.

And on to Day 2! Are you with me?

First stop: the neighborhood school all four of my children attended. So many memories of waiting outside the big blue door. As they came home for a two-hour lunch, I was there four times per day.

This plaque has been added since we lived here. It says:

To the memory of the students of this school who were deported in 1942 - 1944 because they were born Jews, innocent victims of Nazis' barbarianism and the Vichy government. More than 1200 students of the 11th district were killed in the death camps.

I had no idea that many children were sent to concentration camps from our arrondissement alone. Heart-breaking. Such plaques now appear in many parts of Paris.

Under a light drizzle, we moved on to the boulevard Voltaire in search of a vegan bakery we'd spotted online. We're both dairy-intolerant, so this was pure heaven! I couldn't believe I could eat ALL the things. So many beautiful pastries, so little time (and stomach space!)

Fortified, we walked on to the Marais district. I love this part of Paris with its rich medieval and Jewish history. While Day 1 focused on "grand Paris" with stunning monuments and boulevards, my preference is always for the cobbled roads and old old buildings.

We passed this plaque on our way, with its Huguenot cross, a reminder of the heritage of their story in the Protestant churches of today.

Spotting street art—contemporary or from a bye-gone time is always a delight

A quick glimpse of the unequaled Place des Vosges—where Victor Hugo once lived—and on into the Marais.

The Marais was once the city's Jewish quarter and remains full of synagogues and Kosher restaurants. Now, it is also a fashionable area of galleries and boutiques and great second-hand and vintage clothes stores (our destination.)

We soaked up the quaint atmosphere of crooked cobblestone streets lined with medieval and pre-Revolutionary buildings. Apparently, much of Paris used to look this way, only to be changed by Napoleon and his grand ideas. I, for one, am very glad the Marais has preserved the ancient flavors.

Photos clockwise:

1 - Line outside Kosher bakery

2 - Love the mosaics on this one

3 - Histoire de Paris sign describes Ashkenazi Jews' arrival in France starting in 1881 where they lived in the Marais, started a school, established businesses, etc. More than half were killed in Nazi concentration camps

4 - Boulangerie/bakery beauty

5 - Street art

6 - A garden honoring Joseph Migneret, a school principal who saved dozens of Jewish children from deportation during WW2. He earned the honor of being named "Righteous Among the Nations"

My daughter was feeling unwell this day and was quite a trooper, nonetheless. We stopped for a quick lunch for me and tea for her at a place that served delicious bagel sandwiches, filling a homesick American spot in me. Had she felt better, we would've chosen otherwise; she didn't come to Paris to eat bagels!

Tired, but happy, we made our way back to our Airbnb where we took a few last photos in our old park with our former apartment in the background.

Early early the next morning, it was time to say goodbye. We caught the TGV, the "train grande vitesse" that zooms from Paris to Nîmes in three hours. Too early to have something at the famous "Le Train Bleu" restaurant at the Gare de Lyon. Maybe next time.

Au revoir, Paris!

La vie est belle . . .